| Beach formation begins as eroded
continental material--sand, gravel, and cobble fragments--is washed to sea by
streams and rivers. Two separate processes result in the deposit of this sand
and sediment on the shore. Most sediment is suspended in sea water and transported
along the coast by the longshore current, a stream of water flowing parallel to
the beach that is created by the action of waves breaking at an angle to shore.
Longshore transport can deliver up to a million cubic yards of sediment annually
to a single beach. In the second process, sand deposited onshore by the longshore
current is then oscillated by waves breaking onto and receding from the beach.
This continual onshore-offshore movement gradually pushes the sand along the beach
edge. both the longshore transport of sediment along the coast and the movement
of sand by waves along the foreshore are a part of the process called littoral
drift.
The California coastline has been divided into geographic segments
called littoral cells, that incorporate a complete cycle of beach sediment supply,
sand transport by the longshore current, and eventual permanent loss of sand from
the littoral cell. The five types of littoral cells along the California coast
are each characterized by a different littoral process determined by the geographic
features unique to the cell type. One type of cell is defined by a long stretch
of coastline that begins at a headland and terminates in a submarine canyon, such
as at Mugu Canyon in Venture County and La Jolla Canyon in San Diego County; another
cell type consists of a large river delta bounded on either side by rocky headlands,
such as at Humboldt Bay; a third type of littoral cell is defined by a crescent-shaped
by downcoast of a promontory, like Half Moon Bay in San Mateo County; and a fourth
type of cell consists of a rocky headland downcoast of a beach where waves break
in a line parallel to the shore, as at Ten Mile Beach in Mendocino County. Finally,
lagoons and closed bays with restricted tidal flow create a fifth type of littoral
cell, such as Bolinas Bay in Marin.
Apart from littoral cell type, there
are characteristic differences between Northern and Southern California beaches,
depending upon the directions of prevailing wind and upon local coastal geology.
Along California's north coast, cove or pocket beaches are common where the granitic
and basaltic rock that composes the sea cliffs has been sculpted by prevailing
northwesterly winds and battered by high energy waves over millions of years.
In Southern California, beaches often consist of long ribbons of sand interrupted
by widely separated rocky points. The bluffs of easily eroded shales and sandstones
that edge the coast here continuously crumble away, creating on even coastline
over time. Some beach types are found along both Northern and Southern
California coasts. Narrow cove beaches like those at Laguna Beach in Orange County
form where the coast is composed of conglomerate rock and hard sandstone; even
when exposed to direct wave attack this rock type is highly resistant to erosion.
The narrow beaches formed within there coves often lose all their sand during
winter storms, exposing the underlying cobbles, as at Boomer Beach, south of Point
La Jolla in San Diego County. Barrier beaches and sand spits are also present
along the coast at river mouths, bays, and lagoons; examples are Silver Strand
Beach in San Diego, Zuma Beach in Malibu, and beaches at the Smith, Salinas, Pajaro,
and Santa Maria River mouths. Beaches vary in color according to the mineral
content of the sand, which is also a clue to the origin to the eroded sediments
that make up the sand supply. eroded shale cliffs create the charcoal gray beach
sand at Shelter Cove in Humboldt County. North of Humboldt Bay, the coarse sands
of Agate Beach are multicolored agates that have been ground and polished by the
surf. Ground quartz and feldspar mineral make up the white beaches of Carmel,
while a few miles to the north in Sand City, amber colored sand indicates the
presence of iron mineral. Close inspection reveals that white sand beaches are
mosaic of pale quartz grains, pink green or white feldspar and fleck o black mica.
Beaches are inhabited by a variety of invertebrates and insects. In the
surf zone, bivalve mollusk, crustaceans, and tube-building worms adapt to their
environment of tide cycles and buffeting waves by burrowing to protect themselves
from wave impact, temperature fluctuations, desiccation, and predation. The smooth
shells of clams and other bivalve burrowers reduce friction when they tunnel through
the fine sandy beaches of their preferred habitat. At low tide, water retained
between the sand particles is filled with millions of microscopic diatoms and
zooplankton upon which the buried bivalves feed, using long siphons that reach
to the sand surface. Fine screens within the siphons filter out sand particles
by allow the passage of water and suspended organic material that provide an abundant
food supply for the filter- feeding bivalves. Razor clams, surf clams and coquina
clams are common burrowers along California beaches. Pismo clams occupy a special
niche in the surf zone of Central California beaches, well-adapted to the crashing
surf by nature of their large, heavy shells, which act as anchors. these giant
clams are dependent upon the high-oxygen content of the roiling surf to survive.
Inland from the surf zone, sand craves scavenge in the sun-dried kelp and
bury in the sand, using their antennae to rake food particles to their mouths.
Kelp flies, wrack flies, rove beetles, tiger beetles, and dune beetles ream the
beach foreshore. The dry upper beach is inhabited by air-breathing pill buys and
beach hoppers. Numerous beetle species inhabit the dunes, some burrowing in the
sand during the day to escape predators and the heat. The natural process
of beach building and erosion has been altered by extensive development of the
California coast. Prior to development, natural loss of sand from beaches, largely
to dunes and submarine canyons, and natural sand supply, mostly from rivers and
streams, were in rough balance. The damming of rivers alone has reduced half of
the natural sand supply to beaches from Santa Barbara to Mexico. The natural balance
of beach sand supply and loss has been altered by the construction of offshore
breakwaters, groins, and jetties, which may divert sand from one location to another
and change beach slope. In a few locations large-scale beach nourishment projects
have created wide beaches that may last several decades or more before eroding
away, but not all coastal areas are suitable for such projects; even where these
projects have been successful, this solution to the problem of beach erosion is
costly and impermanent Beach
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Beach Information Coastal
Erosion |