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Shikoku ("Four Provinces"), tucked in the great notch gouged by the Inland Sea between Kyushu and Honshu, is bite-sized, the smallest of Japan's four main islands. A steady stream of devout pilgrims has journeyed to its famed 88 Sacred Temples for 1,000 years. Considering that it has excellent weather, outstanding physical beauty, and intriguing cultural and religious centers, it is phenomenal that Shikoku is the least visited of the major islands.
Kagawa-ken, the northeastern prefecture of Shikoku, is the island's smallest but mightiest. Shikoku's center of commerce, government, and transportation, Takamatsu is Kagawa's main port. Here, heavy industry lines the shore with an erector set of smokestacks and building cranes. But just ten minutes from Takamatsu Eki is Ritsurin Koen park, long admired as one of Japan's masterpieces of landscape gardening. To the northeast is Shikoku Mura, an open-air museum of residential homes, and the Yashima Plateau, which served as a great 12th-century battlefield. Sakaide, a onetime minor village just 20 km west of Takamatsu and formerly known for salt production, leapt into world prominence in April 1988 when it welcomed the first traffic across the Seto O-hashi bridge. Farther west along the Inland Sea is Tadotsu, a small port town home to Shorin-ji, a Zen temple famous for its martial arts tradition. Tadotsu also is the gateway to Zentsu-ji, the birthplace of the great saint Kobo Daishi who founded Zentsu-ji Temple, the headquarters of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism. Just south is Kotohira Jingu, one of the oldest and most revered Shinto shrines in the country. Kan-on-ji is at the western end of the prefecture and home to Kan-on-ji Temple, the 69th of the 88 Sacred Temples. Here too is Kotohiki Koen park, just a short stroll from the central eki. The park features the Zenigata, huge sand ditches resembling a 17th-century coin that is distinguishable only by peering down from a nearby hill.
Ehime-ken stretches almost 200 km west from Kawanoe along the Inland Sea to Yawatahama, where it bends southward for another 100 km. In Ehime-ken Prefecture are unvisited fishing villages, especially along the Uwa Sea. The secondary industry here is raising cultured pearls, and beautiful specimens are available from wholesalers at greatly reduced prices. The prefecture's central city is Matsuyama, crowned by a four-centuries-old castle and renowned for Dogo Onsen, where dignitaries, artists, and statesmen have come to soak and meditate for more than two millennia. Midway between Kawanoe and Matsuyama is Saijo, the gateway to Mount Ishizuchi, at 1,982 meters the tallest in western Japan. Hiking trails, open from June to November, lead to a small shrine that marks the summit. On the southern foot of Ishizuchi-san is Omogo Kei gorge, the largest in Shikoku. Yawatahama is a manufacturing town located at the base of Cape Sada pointing like a long bony finger toward Kyushu's Oita and Beppu. South is Uwajima, a quiet town filled with craftsmen and renowned for its bullfighting ring and the ancient and colorful Ushi-Oni Festival. In town is Uwajima-jo Castle, one of only 12 castles that have survived the ages intact, although some restoration has occurred.
Tokushima-ken, sandwiched between Kagawa and Kochi prefectures, occupies the island's east coast. Tokushima city, an old port town, is the commerce and communication hub of eastern Shikoku. North of Tokushima is Naruto, the terminus of the Naruto O-hashi bridge and the departure point for excursion boats to the wild Naruto Kaikyo straits. Between the two towns is Awa-Otani, a village centered around traditional pottery works. Pristine villages nestled along the south coast are famous for their fresh seafood. In Hiwasa, one of these is Ohama Beach, where giant sea turtles waddle ashore to lay their eggs in the warm sand. Nearby is Yakuo-ji Temple, the 23rd of the sacred 88 temples, purported to offer the best talisman for warding off evil spells. South of Hiwasa toward Kaifu, Tokushima's most southern village, are the Semba Sea Cliffs dramatically rising 200 meters above the pounding surf. A rail line leads inland to Anabuki, where the famous Dochu Earthen Pillars have been carved by millions of years of erosion. Farther west is Ikeda, the jumping-off point for Mount Tsurugi and environs, considered to be some of the last wilderness in Japan. Here you will find the natural wonders of Oboke and Koboke, two scenic rock formations along a magnificent gorge. Farther south is Iyadani Gorge cut by the Iya-gawa river through the bedrock of Mount Tsurugi. Plenty of hiking trails lead to the mountain's summit, which is crowned by a ski lift and a national lodging house.
Kochi-ken is Shikoku's entire southern underbelly facing the wide Pacific. The prefecture's central city is Kochi, with its alabaster castle sitting high on a hill. Just south of the city is Katsurahama Beach, a strand of pure white sand famous as an excellent vantage point for moon viewing. Twenty kilometers east of Kochi-ken is Ryugado, one of the three finest stalactite caves in Japan. The far eastern tip of land is Cape Muroto, where nature is schizophrenic. Here the climate is gentle, creating a hothouse where subtropical plants thrive, though the area is constantly dashed by the swirling tides and buffeting winds of typhoon gales. The far western section of the prefecture ends at Cape Ashizuri, where camellias and tropical plants grow with reckless abandon. Here the kuroshio (black current) pounds against 100-meter-tall sea cliffs, adding a dramatic punctuation point to Shikoku's southern tip.
TOKUSHIMA PREFECTURE
Komatsu: This beach is conveniently located within the boundaries of Tokushima City. A special bus service to the resort will be starting soon.
Tsukimigaoka: This beach is also near to the city, but in Matsushige-cho. Take a bus bound for Naruto Koen and alight at Oge or Kuroyama stops. The beach is a twenty minute walk away from the bus-stop.
Kitanowaki: This beach is in Anan. By train, alight at Minobayashi Station on the Mugi line. Or, take a bus from Tokushima Station heading towards Nakabayashi and alight at Kitanowaki bus stop.
Awashima: Located not far from Kitanowaki. Take the train to Anan Station (Mugi line), and then board an Anan Bus bound for Awashima Kaigan. Get off at the final stop.
Tainohama: Going further south, down to Yuki. Take a train on the Mugi line and alight at Tainohama Rinji Station, which is a temporary station only open during the summer season. (7-8, 14-15 July, and then from 20 July - 12 August). The beach is officially open from July 1st to August 31st.
Uchizuma: This beach is in Mugi Town, and is accessible from Mugi Station on the Mugi Line.
Ozuna: Further south still is Ozuna Beach in Kainan. Take a train as far as Sabase Station. From there, transfer to a Nanbu Bus until you reach "Ozuna".
Tegura: The most southern beach in Tokushima Prefecture is Tegura in Kaifu-cho. It is a ten-minute walk from Kaifu Sation, also on the Mugi line.
KOCHI PREFECTURE
Shirahama: (Toyo-cho) Take a train down as far as Mugi, where you should transfer to the Asa Kaigan line. Alight at Kannoura Station.
KAGAWA PREFECTURE
Tsuda-no-Matusbara: (Tsuda-cho) This beach is a ten-minute walk from Sanuki-Tsuda Station on the JR Koutoku Line. Official opening date is July 1st.
Kashima: (Shodoshima) From Tonosho-ko Port, take the Nishiura line bound for Kose. Alight at Kashima Kaisui Yokujo.
The "Olive" Beach: Take a bus bound for Kusakabe Port (on the Sakate route) from Tonosho-ko Port and alight at the "Olive" Koen-mae stop.
The "Healthy" Beach: The closest bus-stop is Senge, which is operated by buses on bound for Kose on the Nishiura route.
The "Silver" Beach: From Tonosho-ko Port, take a bus bound for Fukuda-ko Port. Alight at the "Silver Beach"-mae bus-stop.
AWAJISHIMA ISLAND
Beaches on the island are not well served by public transport, so you will have to drive. Leave the expressway at the specified junction or interchange.
Keino-Matsubara: This beach, which is officially open from July 1st to August 19th, is a 5-minute drive from Seidan Mihara Interchange.
Ibi-Uzushio-Mura Auto Camp: This resort is a 5-minute drive away from the Minami Interchange.
Maruyama: The beach is a 10-minute drive away from the Minami Interchange.
Ama-Kaigan: This beach is a 30-minute drive away from either Minami or Seidan Mihara Interchanges. |