AFTER ALL this strenuous activity, we drove to the city of Siracusa for a change of pace. While we didn’t find Archimedes’ bathtub, and didn’t even see his grave though it apparently lay somewhere in the Archaeological Park, we did find a good “real” city with excellent street food.

Siracusa and the neighbouring old city of Ortigia, was full of real Sicilians, living, working, drinking espresso and arguing — often simultaneously. We stayed in a B&B in an ancient building with a slightly deaf caretaker and an old wooden cage-like elevator. Young couples on vespas drove through the night, stopping for snacks like thin crust pizzas, doughnut like zeppole filled with ricotta, arancini (samosa shaped fried rice croquettes stuffed with meat and cheese) and the omnipresent gelati. Gelateria, Pasticeria and Bar was the hoarding of choice above scores of kiosks all over, perhaps the Sicilian equivalent of South Indian, Punjabi and Chinese.

Siracusans were shocked at the mention of Taormina and Etna as our only Sicilian sights and directed us to Cava Grande de Cassubile- a gorge with natural pools to swim in. Unfortunately, rain meant that the site was closed to visitors, though we stopped by a stream for lunch. Other nearby sites included the beaches of Vendicari with its protected wetland sanctuary, and the island of Portopaulo, the southernmost tip of Sicily.

While the stomach was happiest in Siracusa, our hearts beat for Taormina. So just before leaving the island, we made a quick trip back to our favourite town and soaked up some more sun, sea and sipped Limoncellos - lemon liqueur from Capri, that reminded me of Yo Yo Ma.

By that time I’d found out- Donne is ladies, Uomini- gentlemen.